Day 415: Buenos Aires, Argentina
I have done my fair share of eating in Buenos Aires but if I was going to learn what it was like to live as a Porteño I needed to know how to cook like one.
With food being my first love I have taken many cooking classes, not only one-off classes but semesters at a culinary school. When I was in Thailand, like others I took a cooking class in Chiang Mai and it was a highlight of the trip.
Stephanie found Norma’s class online after I had given up finding classes in South America. Norma is a psychotherapist during the week but loves food so much she teaches the classes on Saturdays.
I liked Norma right away.
Before we did any cooking we sat around a table to get to know everyone a bit better. I learned that Norma was already listed in Lonely Planet, but unlike most people who are listed, she didn’t jack the class prices up.
Empanadas
Although I have eaten empanadas all throughout South America I must confess they are the best in Argentina.
I have been addicted to the spinach and cheese ones using the excuse I need more green in my diet to combat all the steak.
Folding the empanadas was the most difficult part of the class. Norma showed me a few times and Stephanie‘s first attempt was perfect. Mine was okay…let’s just say I prefer taste over presentation.
When Norma heard we also loved caprese empanadas (tomato, cheese, basil) she also showed us how to make those. She also explained that each variety has its own traditional way of folding.
I was pleased to see that cooking the empanadas hides your lack of folding abilities.
Alfajores
Alfajores are two round cookies filled with dulce de leche and decorated with coconut. Sometimes they are also dipped in chocolate or other coatings. I’m not a big sweets person so making alfajores wasn’t a big deal for me.
In fact most of my experiences with them involved gross, processed cookies that they give you on the bus that you know are disgusting but eat anyway and then lament over why you eat something just because it’s free.
But making alfajores was dangerous because the cookies were delicious with just enough dulce de leche wedged in between them to make them sweet enough to make them again.
Locro
I was most excited to make locro. A traditional stew, it is one of the few dishes made with pork.In this case two kinds – chorizo and pancetta.
This is my kind of soup.
Norma’s recipe is a bit more modern as she has tried to make it more healthy. Traditionally you just throw some leftovers of the pig into the stew to flavour it but understands not everyone wants some pig’s ear in their bowl.
Locro: corn stew
2 cups hominy (soaked overnight in water)
1.5 cups dried beans (soaked overnight in water)
200g diced pancetta
2 sausages, sliced thinly
1 small onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, diced
1 red pepper, diced
1 green pepper, diced
3 scallions, diced
1 kg squash, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 tbsp tomato paste or 1/2 cup of tomato puree
2 cubes of stock
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon paprika
1.5 teaspoons cumin
1. Put corn and beans in water, bring to a boil and simmer for 25 minutes. Add squash and carrots.
2. Saute onions, scallions, peppers and garlic. Add to pot with tomato paste and stock cubes.
3. Cook pancetta and sausage, discard fat and add to pot. Simmer 30 minutes.
4. Check spices and consistency, adjust as needed.
Afterwards we had a great lunch with wine and salad and Norma gave us a booklet with all of the recipes along with others including how to make spinach empanadas!
If you are coming to Buenos Aires this is a really fun afternoon. You can find out more about her class at Argentine Cooking Classes.
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I'm Ayngelina and in my mid-thirties. I left an amazing job, boyfriend, apartment and friends to find inspiration in Latin America. I'm creating a new life choosing what I want instead of what other people think I should do.
Oh yum! Love the look of those empanadas, especially the cheese/basil/tom ones! Such a simple yet scrumptious combination. The soup sounds pretty good too.
Am soo putting this on my list for Buenos Aires!
megan recently posted..Things I liked in May and you might- too
Meeting Norma is definitely a must-do as far as I am concerned.
I’ve never seen an empanada before it was closed up and cooked! How interesting to see the tomato and basil laid out in it like that…
And of course I’m going to try that corn stew recipe asap!
Christy @ Technosyncratic recently posted..Photo Essay- The Oregon Coast
The stew was amazing, but anything with bacon in it is stellar.
Now this is what I’m talking about- awesome! I’d fall in love with Norma too if she was cooking for me!
jade recently posted..Snorkeling- Stingers and a Blue-Footed Booby with Vallarta Adventures
MMM, I love empanadas!! I like the photo where she’s folding them, she really does get them looking perfect. I usually use a fork to close mine…haha, I guess I’m also taste over presentation! Ahh, simply delicious!!
Ahh yes she did mention the fork method, I will likely do that when I get home as well.
I loved the empanadas in Argentina. I laughed at the eating the cookie on the bus b/c it’s free comment! So true – I always felt compelled to eat it even though I knew it would disappoint!!
It gives you this weird plastic, oily taste inside your mouth, you know it but you still eat it.
Wow, delicious. I’d love to take a cooking class! Those cookies are mouth-watering and I’ve never seen empanadas with tomatoes, basil and cheese. They look delicious. Also, I need to stop reading your blog when I’m hungry.
Steph recently posted..Creative Colombians- DjLu-Juegasiempre
Some of the better ones here, my favourite are actually spinach and cheese, the green vegetable makes me forget all the artery clogging cheese grease!
You’ll have to teach me empanada’s when you’re back.
I laughed when I seen the diced hard boiled egg in the empanada filling. Crazy porteno’s.
eggs in everything!
Are those green olives and raisins and & hard boiled eggs in the empanada filling? The finished ones do look perfect! What a fun class. I’m going to try making the locro.
Nicole recently posted..Edison- Washington- the perfect tiny town
Yeah they are also very common in chilean empanadas, a nice mix of salty sweet.
Everything looks wonderful! I never thought of taking a cooking class when I travel; it’s a great idea. And I can totally relate to eating the free stuff – I always eat the free stuff they give you on a plane (although it’s not much now) even though I don’t really want it – hey, it’s FREE!
Jan Ross recently posted..Sushi Bar on Carnival Liberty
Once I ate one alfajore and lamented at how awful it was but then when they gave me another one an hour later I ate it anyway?!
Wow – even the recipe! That locro looks incredible, as do the empanadas! I’m on your side, taste over presentation.
Mark Wiens recently posted..101 Things to Do in Bangkok
Looks yummy this. Normally, I prefer for someone else to do the cooking, but in two weeks I’m off for a cooking class in Italy as part of a press trip. My kids have high hopes for when I return
Italy press trip with cooking class? The jealousy begins now!
These look delicious, I love the empanadas with the little flags on top
Angela recently posted..A trip- a photo – In Istanbul- smoke anyone
a definitely an incredible cooking experience!
Stop it! Its only 9L30 am and I’m starving now
Empanadas, wow! cookies sound amazing but that stew I might just make it this weekend!
Debbie Beardsley recently posted..Mystery Picture Take 2!
Traveling is always a conduit for learning things that you would probably not be exposed to within the safe confines of home. I see it as a never ending classroom where so much is absorbed in such a short span of time. It’s experiences like this that make me smile inside because it’s so simple, yet it leaves an indelible, lifelong impression.
Renee recently posted..TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY
I can summarize it by saying… yummmmm… this made me drool!
Norbert recently posted..A Motorcycle Adventure from Buenos Aires to Cordoba
It is funny how I can fold an empanada perfectly on my first try, but I know very little about cooking. I think I am better at assisting in the kitchen.
The Travel Chica recently posted..Horses- Cowboys- and Grilled Meat – Oh My!
Just shows you have raw talent waiting to be used!
Well not directly related, I said this is one of the 3 vacations I wouldn’t take – a themed/cooking vacation. I know some people love this stuff but I don’t cook at home much less when I travel! Just not something I care about experiencing!
Jeremy Branham recently posted..Budget travel deals of the week May 31 – Summer deals- airline discounts- Lake Tahoe- Napa Valley
Hehe yet another reason we’ll ever meet up on the road
Oh man, I forgot how much I love caprese empanadas. I DO miss that about Latin American food.
Although, I really hate dulce de leche, and that made it hard for me with desserts in Argentina. It is all over everything!
Dalene Heck recently posted..Freedom
It’s a bit too sweet for my liking as well but these alfajores made me change my mind about it.
I want to take cooking classes so badly. Everywhere I turn they are $100+. Kills me. I LOVE some good food.
Erica recently posted..The Magical Meat Market of Oaxaca- Mexico
I know I really wanted to take some in Oaxaca but could not find anything affordable.
I have never, ever turned down an empanada!
Claire (Travel Funny Travel Light) recently posted..On How Marriage is Just Like Traveling
Nor have I, especially here where they make them with spinach!
Ayngelina, you are so lucky! I wish I could take those cooking classes! The folds on those empanadas look so uniform! I am curious about the caprese empanadas – they are left open before baking? My kids would love that one! Thanks for sharing your experience – I love learning about other countries’ cuisines.
Jeanette recently posted..Farmers Market Sandwich – Pesto- Mozzarella- and Tomato Sandwich
Yes each empanada has its own fold, and while the caprese ones can be closed up we left them almost as tarts and cooked them open, really delicious!
Those empanadas look so nicely pleated. You are so fortunate to be able to take these cooking classes – wish I could be there! I love learning about all different cuisines.
Jeanette recently posted..Farmers Market Sandwich – Pesto- Mozzarella- and Tomato Sandwich
I would love to travel & take amazing regional cooking classes like this!
Sounds like a great way to spend an afternoon to me. No wonder you enjoyed it!
Learning authentic local cooking techniques sounds like one of the best ways to really immerse yourself in an area. I’m a big fan of empanadas!
Scott – Quirky Travel Guy recently posted..Quirky Attraction- Mrs Butterworth Julia Grant statue
I need to do some sort of cooking class I think, they sound like they could be a lot of fun. Not to mention getting to eat what you make.
Chris recently posted..How Much Did It Cost – Naples Budget
This looks so great! Kind of regret not taking any authentic cooking courses in South America now
Jozef @ Where Now recently posted..Rangiteiki- Raftabout
Wow! Looks fantastic. I bet the empanadas were fun to make.
More fun to eat!
Dear God, dear God, dear GOD – I’m always in heaven with your food posts! And I can’t even begin to tell you my love affair with empanadas. Bookmarking this one!
Michi recently posted..Sevilla- love at first sight
We have some great friends back in California, she is Colombian, he is Argentinian, so needless to say, their cooking was amazing, even their different takes on Empanadas and things like that.
Now you just made me miss their cooking (and the authentic hispanic food you can get in California) even more
Those Alfojores look amazing, send us some! Nom Nom Nom
For 91 Days Travel Blog recently posted..From Sucre to Potosí by Train
caprese empanadas! Say what!>? Too much deliciousness here.
That class looks great! I love alfajores and agree, Argentine empanadas are the best. Espinaca is my favorite too
Leslie (Downtown Traveler) recently posted..NYC memories- Growing up in the East Village in the 1950s
No one we get along so virtually well–food is my first love too. And thanks for including the lorno recipe. I’m gonna save that for when I get to London and want something warm and comforting.
I think we would make great travel partners. You could go to cooking classes and I would eat whatever you made! LOL
yum look those fresh made food. so delicious looking.
I can never properly fold empanadas or pastelitos and I always over stuff them too.
Cornelius Aesop recently posted..A Historical Guide to Real Mexican Tequila
I would overstuff them as well…
Your pictures are seriously good.. what kind of camera are you using?
Wanderingtrader recently posted..THE BLUE LAGOON IN ICELAND
Canon 40D with a 50mm 1.4 but a lot of times I also just use my Sony Cybershot on the macro setting.
I think this is a fab idea – I wish I could get my kids more interested in cooking (as opposed to just eating) so we could try something like this when we travel. Maybe I’ll just have to start sneaking away. Thanks for sharing the recipe – it looks yummy.
oh, YES!! Love taking cooking classes while traveling!! those empanadas are beautiful! when i make it to BA, definitely will need to take her class!!!
jenjenk recently posted..Oahu: Surfing Lessons in Waikiki
She’s great. If you need any other advice on BA just let me know!