Most people only visit Viñales Cuba as a day trip from Havana. That’s a huge mistake as the best things happen at dusk and dawn.
I’ve been to Viñales several times, including with Cuban friends during carnaval. It is the perfect blend of relaxing with beauty that will keep you talking about it for years.
I revisited it a few months ago and it was quite eventful. Watch the video below as we were in the middle of a national power failure and yet still had an amazing time.
Is Viñales Cuba Worth it?
If you think Cuba is just an island of beaches, cigars and classic cars Viñales is going to blow you away.
This tobacco farming valley surrounded by limestone mogotes deserves at least 2 days of your time. The countryside here feels completely different from Havana and you’ll get to experience a side of Cuba most tourists rush past.
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The Valley of Viñales was once home to the Taínos, Cuba’s indigenous population. Around 1800, settlers from the Canary Islands arrived and transformed the valley into one of the world’s premier tobacco growing regions.
Today the entire Viñales Valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The designation came in 1999 and protects the unique landscape of mogotes, traditional farming methods and the cultural heritage of the tobacco farmers who still work these fields.
Best Things to Do in Viñales
Explore Cueva del Indio
This is one of the easiest cave experiences you’ll find in Cuba. The walkways are lit and well maintained so you don’t need any special equipment or skills.
I’m proof of this as I wore a dress and ballet slippers not realistic but absolutely manageable.
The highlight is a boat ride through the cave where your guide points out rock formations you won’t see anywhere else. You’ll get a number for the ticket line which moves pretty quickly.
Cubans pay much less than foreign visitors, don’t complain as it’s still a reasonable price.
Experience Carnaval
If you time your visit right, Carnaval in Viñales is spectacular. They have an amazing nighttime parade and the costumes are incredible.
Locals buy bottles of rum, ask for plastic glasses and soda, then head to the square to dance.
After dinner, head to Centro Cultural Polo Montañez or the main square by the church to find the dancefloor. Salsa is still king here and you’ll see a side of Cuban celebration most tourists never experience.
Just remember that accommodation prices spike during this time.
Get Your Adrenaline Fix at El Fortin Canopy Tour
The zip line course at Loma del Fortin gives you a bird’s eye view of the valley. You’ll fly between royal palms with the mogotes rising up around you.
The course is about 5 kilometers outside town. A quick taxi ride gets you there. The cost is $8 per person for four zip lines.
On one trip all my Cubans friends did this and loved it as there aren’t many ziplines in Cuba. I think the only other one is much smaller in Las Terrazas.
Visit the Mural de la Prehistoria
One of the most bizarre tourist attractions I have visited. Fidel Castro commissioned this 120 meter mural in 1961 to depict evolution through a mix of snails, cavemen and dinosaurs.
Entrance is $1 and you technically don’t need to pay as it is in a huge field that you can see from the road.
But entrance is only $1 and it’s a fun kitschy thing to do. Grab a beer and sit on the grass to take it all in.
The mural is close to Cueva del Indio so you can easily visit both in one trip. Admission is only 1 CUC or you can see it from outside the entrance for free.
People call this the worst tourist attraction in Cuba but I think that’s unfair.
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Rent a Bicycle
Although you’ll see horse back riding available and electric motorbikes from China are becoming more popular, the local way to get around is still by bike.
Cycling gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace without paying for taxis. You can reach the caves, Los Jazmines, tobacco farms and sugarcane fields on two wheels.
It’s more sustainable than taxis and gives the poor horses a break from constant tourist rides. Plus you can stop whenever something catches your eye.
Stop at Viñales Valley Mirador
If you’re traveling solo without a car, take the hop on hop off bus. It’s an easy way to cover ground and see nearby attractions.
The second stop on the bus is a breathtaking viewpoint of Viñales Valley close to Hotel Los Jazmines. But go early in the morning or for sunset as it is beautiful.
The viewpoint is well marked as tour guides and big bus groups stop here so there’s lots of parking.
Watch the Sunset at Horizontes Los Jazmines
Immediately next to the look out is a hotel with one of the best views.
In 2019 when traveling with friends we bought day passes to the pool for $8 and you could spend $5 of it on food. It wasn’t the best food but the pool and spectacular views were worth it
Stay until sunset. The way the light hits the valley as the sun drops is worth the entire trip.
I wouldn’t stay here as it’s a bit of a hike from town but a day here is great, especially when it is hot.
Go Underground Boating
The underground cave boating experience takes you through a series of caverns filled with crystal clear water. The water reflects the stalactites and stalagmites that have been forming for thousands of years.
It’s a magical and otherworldly experience. The winding passages and intricate rock formations create an atmosphere unlike anything above ground.
Visit Los Acuáticos and Meet the Water People
My Cuban friends wanted to bring me here because they always laughed at me for trying to get them to drink more water. They would complain that they had a headache or didn’t feel well and I forced them to drink water.
And so when we arrived in Viñales they said we had to meet mi gente aka “my people” who believes water could cure everything,
I had to see for myself.
Almost nobody visits this tiny hillside community early enough. Los Acuáticos is a small village above the valley where people historically believed mountain spring water had healing powers.
I didn’t take enough photos of this area but I’ve heard if you hike up around sunrise, fog hangs over the mogotes and farmers are already working in the fields with their horses. Some tour agencies offer morning yoga here.
It’s a beautiful part of the region and feels completely different from the tourist routes.
While we were here a man told my friends that there is also a polygamous family here and introduced us to them! I did not take any photos as I didn’t want to treat them like a tourist attraction. But I have search online and no one mentions this!
This would be a good time to go with a local to discover if it’s true.
Support Agritourism at Finca Agroecológica El Paraíso
I feature El Paraiso in my video as it’s been around for 20 years and found a model to make a good living while supporting organic farming.
It is a well established restaurant and will soon offer casa particular rooms with incredible views .
The set menu costs 15 CUC and includes seasonal products from the farm plus pork, chicken and lobster. Agritourism helps farmers minimize risk through multiple revenue streams and you get to eat incredibly fresh food.
I recommend getting here right when it opens as buses do bring groups here and you can get the best views on the uncovered patio.
Explore the Residential Side Streets
Most visitors stick to the central strip but Viñales in a small rural town so it’s not tough to walk a block or two and be completely out of tourism
You’ll see domino games, bicycles piled outside homes and people sitting in rocking chairs talking for hours.
These streets are calmer and more personal. They’re perfect for street photography or just soaking in local life.
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Watch a Local Baseball Game
Baseball in Cuba feels very neighborhood based. In Viñales, games happen on rough fields with old equipment and surprisingly passionate crowds.
There’s also a big field just a block away from the main strip.
Kids imitate professional Cuban players while older men argue loudly from the sidelines. It’s pure Cuban culture and completely free to watch.
Try the Local Rum
El Valle de Cuba rum can only be purchased in Viñales. It’s not the smoothest rum you’ll ever drink but it’s a unique souvenir and a taste of the local spirit. If it’s too strong turn it into a Cuba libre cocktail.
Cuban Coffee
Ride the Hop On Hop Off Bus
If you’re traveling solo or don’t want to negotiate taxi prices, this is the easiest way to cover ground.
The Viñales bus tour costs $5 for an all day pass. It stops at all the major tourist attractions including tobacco plantations, adventure parks, caves and the mural.
In a Group? Take a Taxi
Most people come to Cuba because they want to support the Cuban people, get to know the culture and see truly local things.
The bus is great but it’s better to put money directly into Cuban’s hands.
Casa particular hosts are great at knowing who you can trust, Agree to a set price with a taxi and discuss where you want to go. If you want to eat lunch or dinner in someone’s home on a farm? Ask if they can arrange it, taxi drivers are connected to everyone and can really make a trip.
Just make sure you agree to costs in advance. It’s not rude. My Cubans friends never did anything without agreeing to costs and always counted their change in front of the person.
Read more tips on Money in Cuba
Skip the Horseback Tours (Maybe)
I’m not a fan of horseback riding and fortunately neither were my friends. Tours offer it for $3-5 per hour but make sure you know exactly how long your tour is. Otherwise it could get costly and leave you with a sore seat.
Tobacco farm tours are normally booked through local casas. All the casas work with a specific licensed guide who maintains the horses and pays for their upkeep. These men are knowledgeable and rely on tours to earn a living.
Booking tours organized in Havana does a disservice to these local guides. Many taxi drivers also try to give tours themselves so they can get a commission. In this case, not only does the money leave the Viñales community but the tour itself is less informative and authentic.
If you’re genuinely interested in cigar production and want to learn about the farming process, go for it. Just book through your casa particular to support the right people.
Stop in Soroa or Las Terrazas
On your way between Havana and Viñales, you’ll pass through the cute villages of Soroa and Las Terrazas. Both are worth a quick stop to break up the journey.
I LOVE Las Terrazas, it’s a commune that is autonomous and you have to marry someone there or have a special skill they need in order to live there. It’s well worth stopping along the way.
Read more about Las Terrazas including a video of my last visit.
Head to the Beaches
If you have three full days in Viñales, definitely plan a beach day. It’s the best of both worlds: countryside and coast.
Locals told us the best beach is Cayo Jutías and not to bother with Cayo Levisa as it wasn’t better than the Havana beaches or Varadero.
We planned to visit but it was expensive ($80 for five people) and the town was too windy so we worried the beach wouldn’t be worth it.
Where to Eat in Viñales
El Paraiso, the farm to table agritourism place I mentioned above is a must visit for $15/person for the best views and more food than you can eat.
Like many restaurants in Old Havana, downtown Viñales caters heavily to foreign tourists. You’ll find plenty of restaurants serving pizza, pasta, sandwiches and local dishes.
During the day, look for little vendors selling sandwiches cooked on hot plates. The quality is good and the prices are significantly cheaper than sit down restaurants.
However, food in Cuba isn’t expensive right now, especially if you convert USD/Euro to Cuban Pesos on the El Toque rate.
Classic Cuban Cocktails
#1 Rule: Eat Breakfast at Home
Cubans don’t eat breakfast outside their home. Sometimes maybe bread with mayonnaise but there is no breakfast culture so save your money and support your casa.
They will offer you the best meal and it’s usually $5 for Cuban fruit, coffee, bread and either eggs or sandwich.
The price of eggs skyrocketed the last time I was in Cuba so I told my hosts I didn’t want any but I still had fantastic breakfasts with more food than I could eat.
Viñales Restaurants I Loved
You’re in the heart of farmland. If you love good food this is the place to try it.
Los Robertos
This spot is also on the main street with a great open air dining room. Service is a bit more formal and prices reflect upscale service.
The menu also has a lot of Cuban classics and I was thrilled to have chilindron, a regional dish made with local goat. It’s one of my favorite Cuban foods and while I’ve had it before in road side joints this was just as good as I remembered.
Bar Los Robertos
Salvador Cisneros 54, Viñales, Cuba
Da Tuty
On the main street I had coffee at Da Tuty during the blackout, their menu looked great and service was so nice to allow me to charge my dead phone.
They have a great patio out front and a menu that has Cuban classics and also international dishes.
Da Tuty
Salvador Cisneros 48, Viñales, Cuba
Drinking in Viñales
Like most of Cuba, rum and beer are easier to find than water. There are lots of bars on the main strip and most of them are for foreign tourists with more money to spend.
If you’re looking for imported beer and alcohol you can find it but it will cost significantly more. We walked into several bars and walked out after looking at the prices.
While drinking on the street or in parks in considered acceptable there are very reasonably priced bars like Zona Verde (photo above). This spot is mostly locals with a few foreign stragglers that find it by chance.
You’ll find local beer for a couple of bucks including La Parranda, which is in collaboration with a Dutch company and sold in a plastic bottle. It’s an easy drinking beer worth trying.
Zona Verde
Salvador Cisneros 44, Viñales, Cuba
How to Get to Viñales from Havana
Tourist Coach Buses
Viazul runs everywhere in Cuba and posts schedules online. You can buy tickets at any bus station. A ticket from Havana to Viñales takes 3.5 hours.
Transtur is the same price and often faster because it makes fewer stops. You must buy Transtur tickets through a Cubanacan travel agent and they don’t post schedules online.
The buses usually require you to come an hour in advance and drop you off centrally.
Shared Taxis (My Recommendation)
Shared taxis offer door to door service for $20-25 per person. Your casa host or hotel can arrange pickup at a pre-arranged time, usually 8am or noon.
Some shared taxis even have air conditioning if you’re lucky. The only consideration is luggage space. If you have large bags, mention this when booking or consider a private car.
I prefer shared taxis because they support local drivers directly. The bus companies are government run so the money doesn’t go straight to Cuban families.
Also they will take you door to door. And if you speak Spanish they love to talk!
Cuban Local Buses
The local bus service is cheaper but slower with more stops. It’s more chaotic and only Spanish is spoken at these stations.
My Cuban friends joke that if you ride during the day you’ll hop off without any clothes left. I rode it once and that didn’t happen but you should always watch your belongings in crowded spaces.
Where to Stay in Viñales
Hotels
There are a few hotels in Viñales including Los Jazmines but most travelers choose casas particulares instead.
Casa Particular (Better Option)
Casa particular are private homes. Sometimes the family lives there and you rent a room but many times you get the whole place.
In Viñales, these are often separate cottages on family property so you get privacy while technically staying with a family.They’re almost always cheaper than hotels and more importantly, your money goes directly to Cuban families.
Prices vary wildly based on timing, location and day of the week. During Carnaval we paid $80 per night for a room with two queen beds, air conditioning and hot water on the main strip. The night after Carnaval ended, we stayed a few streets back for only $20.
On my last trip I stayed here for $15/night and it was a couple blocks from the main street.